Carly Stoenner

You know the story: surfing was “discovered” by European explorers who stumbled upon wave-riding in the Pacific. But that narrative sells the sport’s epic history way short. The truth is, humans have…

While there are many dangers involved in surfing, it’s not the most extreme sport — think mountaineering, base jumping, boxing, or rugby. So yes, there are risks, but there’s also hope! In…